Days 9-10 Varanasi

The next stop on our illogically back-and-forth, whirlwind trip through north India was Varanasi, an ancient city on the Ganges River, a few hundred miles east of Delhi. We decided to go here because of how foreign it seemed to us - and yet how normal it was for the Hindu religion (also because of the Lonely Planet suggestion). Varanasi is considered to be India's most holy Hindu city. Hindus believe that this is the most auspicious place to die, so much so that people will move here and wait to die, and be cremated along the banks at one of the many funeral pyres on the river.

We woke up early (530am) and took an hour long boat ride to see the Hindu pilgrims bathing in the Ganges and see the funeral ceremonies.






We weren't allowed to take any pictures of the burning funeral pyres, but did see how the bodies were prepared and the burning rituals.

Although in some ways my favorite/most memorable city, Varanasi also proved to be absolutely, disgustingly filthy. The cremations had nothing to do with it. The absolute lack of any basic sanitation services, the animals (water buffalo, monkeys, dogs, etc.) running free, and what seemed to be a general disregard for hygiene... Maybe they are just waiting for the monsoons to wash it out.

The city also proved to be our most hassle-laden as well. We encountered more touts here than anywhere else and were constantly hounded by aggressive beggars and auto-rickshaw drivers. Lauren's favorite move was the kids singing "hello money hello money" as they walked behind us. People would, before we could say no, do something pretty meaningless and clearly fake for us (including a priest who said something and then put this red mark on our head; or an old woman who "prayed for our families") and then demand money. Too bad, because it made us question everyone's motives...